Dwarf Name Generator

 Hi everyone,

I made these dwarf name generators a while back and completely forgot about them. All you need is a D10 or two and you too can generate classic dwarf names such as Thunden Ironhoarder, or Darvi Trollfondler. May they haunt your minds and battlefields for years to come!

You will need to roll four times, once on each column.

D10 Roll	First syllable of first name	Remainder of first name	First part of last name	Remainder of last name
1	none	alin	Goblin	Fondler
2	Th	orgrim	Iron	Smiter
3	D	ori	Elf	Breaker
4	G	ain	Gem	Smasher
5	B	orin	Gold	Delver
6	K	alrik	Troll	Hoarder
7	Y	rim	Grudge	Beard
8	W	urin	Oath	Biter
9	Z	unden	Ore	Grudge(r)
10	N	rar	Ingot	Cutter

The names in the table above are male names, mostly inspired by Tolkien's dwarves, with the style of last names owning more to Warhammer Fantasy. If you would like some female dwarves use the table below for the first names, and the table above for the last name.

D10 Roll	First syllable of first name	Remainder of first name
1	none	alina
2	Th	orgre
3	D	is
4	G	loia
5	B	arvi
6	K	alrika
7	Y	im
8	W	ror
9	Z	ili
10	N	ara

I hope you have as much fun with this as I did!

Best wishes,

Owen

Apologies and a New Scenario

Hello all,

I apologise sincerely for the lack of content here! In many ways I am a ‘hobby butterfly’ - namely I get super excited about a concept or a project, pour everything into it for a few weeks and then a switch is just fired and everything for that project stops. I’ve got more to say about this, but I am planning to save it for another post. This is not to say that I have given up on warhammer skirmish totally, rather I have just been working on other, less article-worthy aspects - the rules! I’ve been playing a few games of Warhammer Skirmish recently and the rules are just becoming a massive turn off for me. So, after doing the Warhammer skirmish document, I have begun devising my own rules and, while they still use warhammer profiles and use a couple of the same mechanics, they are diverging massively but are fun and novel and interesting. Sadly they are not ready to share with you all yet but hopefully they will be soon. In the meantime, here is a new scenario I have written and played with these rules, but I am sure they will work just fine with the standard Warhammer Skirmish ruleset.

UNQUIET DEAD

The student wizard Ungaart Heimlich, having been expelled from the magical College of Light in Altdorf, has returned home to the town of Heideck in Averland. Shunned by his noble parents for the scandalous circumstances of his discharge from the college, he has taken refuge in an abandoned shack in the countryside around the town. Now, a few months after his return, the townsfolk and villagers have noticed strange happenings in the local graveyards and mausoleums. Burials have been disturbed. Even the corpses of the recently deceased, laid out prior to burial in the small temple of Morr just outside the town, have gone missing. After a town crier spotted several sinister figures shambling back along the path to the old shack, the town watch has been sent to investigate and arrest the wayward student sorcerer.

Forces

In this scenario the deviant student sorcerer Ungaart Heimlich has turned to the dark and forbidden arts of necromancy. Being only a novice before being thrown out of the College of Light, Ungaart is a level 1 wizard and only knows the spell Raise the Dead, but may cast it at any of the three levels described below. While no skeletons start on the board, Heimlich will be raising them throughout the game to defend himself, so the Undead player will need 12 Skeletons equipped with a mix of spears, great weapons or shields and light armour. The more eclectic the mix of weaponry the better!
On the attacking side are the Town Watch from Heideck. These are State troops of the province of Averland and consist of a Greatsword champion in heavy armour, who leads the party, 3 swordsmen, 3 halberdiers and 2 handgunners all with light armour.

Objectives

The Town Watch are hoping to capture or kill the student necromancer and thus put an end to the spate of grave-robbing that is happening in and around the town. The Town Watch therefore win if they manage to kill Ungaart by the end of the game.
Ungaart is determined not to come quietly – he has great and sinister plans for the town and his hated parents and he cannot afford to be captured or killed at this vital moment! The undead player will therefore win if Heimlich stays alive and if all of the Town Watch force has been killed by the end of the game.

Battlefield

Using a 2’ by 2’ board, place a single small building, representing the abandoned shack where Ungaart has taken up his malign residence, in the South-west corner of the board. Keep the centre 12” by 12” of the board relatively free of terrain, but place trees and scattered rocks or ruined walls and buildings around the rest of the board.

Deployment

Ungaart starts the game next to the shack, in a position marked by the X on the map. No skeletons or zombies are deployed at the start of the game but will be raised throughout play.
The Town Watch patrol starts in the North-east corner of the board, deploying within a 6” by 6” square shown in red on the map.


Special Rules

Determined: The Town Patrol are determined to end the menace posed by Ungaart. As such, normal morale rules are not used in this game and the Town Patrol does not need to make any panic or fear tests for facing the Undead or for any casualties suffered. Similarly, Ungaarts force does not need to take any morale tests regardless of how many zombies or skeletons are destroyed by the Town Watch.

Raise the Dead: This spell can be cast by Ungaart at levels 1, 2 or 3. The effects of each casting level are described below. A maximum of 12 skeletons can be in play at once, representing the limits of the fledgling necromancer’s power.

Level 1: Raises D3 Skeletons within 3” of the caster (casting value 5+).
Level 2: Raises 2D3 Skeletons within 3” of the caster (casting value 7+).
Level 3: Raises 2D6 Skeletons within 6” of the caster (casting value 9+).



PROFILES

The Town Watch

Unit	M	WS	BS	S	T	W	I	A	Ld	Sv	Equipment & Notes
Greatsword Champion	4	4	3	3	3	1	3	2	8	5+	Heavy Armour, Greatsword
Swordsman	4	4	3	3	3	1	3	1	7	5+	Light Armour, Shield
Halberdier	4	3	3	3	3	1	3	1	7	6	Light Armour, Halberd
Handgunner	4	3	3	3	3	1	3	1	7	6	Light Armour, Handgun

The Undead

Unit	M	WS	BS	S	T	W	I	A	Ld	Sv	Equipment & Notes
Ungaart Heimlich	4	3	3	3	3	2	3	1	7	-	Wizard Staff, Level 1 Wizard
Skeleton	3	2	2	3	3	1	2	1	5	5+	Light Armour, Shield
Skeleton	3	2	2	3	3	1	2	1	5	6	Light Armour, Spear
Skeleton	3	2	2	3	3	1	2	1	5	6	Light Armour, Great Weapon

All models also have a hand weapon unless otherwise specified.

Note: when in close combat (i.e. in base contact) against only one enemy, a model that is armed with a shield and a hand weapon and is not knocked down gets an additional +1 save bonus, meaning the appropriate models above would have a total save of 4+, instead of 5+. This is lost when fighting against two or more enemy models or when knocked down. This bonus does not apply against shooting attacks.



I hope you enjoy this scenario! Let me know what you think and how you would change it if you do play through it. I would really appreciate your feedback.



If you want to see more of my modelling and painting shenanigans please follow me on instagram – I post slightly more regularly there than I do here. Link:https://www.instagram.com/warhammer_skirmish_project/



Thank you for reading,



Owen

Complete Warhammer Skirmish Scenarios

Over the past few weeks I have been compiling, organising and indexing as many of the Warhammer Skirmish scenarios as I could find. These include those from the web and those published in the Warhammer Skirmish booklet, as well as various Warhammer Annuals and the General’s Compendium. While a few scenarios were incomplete and had to be left out, there are over 100 in total, so plenty to sink your teeth into.

Regrettably, blogger cannot host pdfs so please follow the google drive link to download the scenarios. The file size is pretty big, at 123 MB, so it doesn’t let you view it, only download it.

If you have any problems please let me know.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1HeMshCyvmSaVYKrosIt-4Nx7O6fiH_d0

Enjoy!

Owen

Beastmen Ungor Painting Guide

Hello everyone,

I’ve been working on my Averland State Troops recently, but found the time to paint a really quick, easy and fun ungor scheme as a test for some Beastmen I have waiting to be assembled. This is my attempt at emulating the Warhammer Fantasy 6^th edition GW studio paint scheme for Beastmen, shown below. Where theirs is quite brownish or orangey, however, mine is a little deeper and redder and I really like how it turned out, and honestly prefer it. Without further ado, here’s the recipe:

Games Workshop Warhammer 6th Edition Studio Scheme

ROUGH PROCESS

1. Basecoat then drybrush any metal parts

2. Basecoat skin

3. Basecoat fur, wood, leather wraps, horns

4. Basecoat loincloth

5. Wash the metal, the fur, hair and leather wraps and belt with Army Painter dark tone wash

6. Wash skin, leather and loincloth with Army Painter strong tone wash

7. Apply highlights

I don’t normally use washes on anything but metals, but playing around with the new Games Workshop Contrast paints has made me a little more comfortable with deviating from the traditional base – layer – highlight – edge highlight method. I’m finding the Army Painter washes are particularly good at giving really nice subtle natural depth on browns, but perhaps a little less so on other colours. I came up with this painting scheme after testing both the Army Painter washes mentioned above on some of my favourite brown colours on the belts, scabbards and shoes of some of my Averland troops. After finding combinations that complemented but also stood out from each other, I then applied them to this lone Ungor.

METAL

- Basecoat with Citadel Warplock Bronze

- Drybrush with Miniature Paints Silver

- Wash with Army Painter Dark Tone

SKIN

- Basecoat Miniature Paints Chestnut Brown

- Wash with Army Painter Strong Tone

- Highlight with Chestnut Brown

- Edge highlight with a 50:50 mix of Miniature Paints Chestnut Brown and Cream, especially on the cheek bones, nose and most prominent muscles, as shown below.

FUR AND HAIR

- Basecoat Miniature Paints Chocolate Brown

- Wash with Army Painter Strong Tone

- Highlight with Chocolate Brown

WOOD

- Basecoat Miniature Paints Chocolate Brown

- Highlight wood grain with lightly watered-down Vallejo British Uniform

HORNS AND BONE

- Basecoat with Miniature Paints Chocolate Brown

- Wash with Army Painter Dark Tone

- Stripe the horns upwards, toward the point, with Vallejo British Uniform. The lower half of the horns should still have the basecoat showing in stripes, but the upper half to third of the horn should be almost entirely blocked in with British Uniform

- Stripe the upper two-thirds of the horn with a 50:50 mix of Vallejo British Uniform and Miniature Paints Sand. When doing this, leave a tiny bit of the basecoat and a decent amount of the midcoat showing for half of this distance, with the other half (so, a third of the horn or less) entirely blocked in with this paint mix.

- Finally, highlight the upper parts of the horn in stripes using Miniature Paints Cream, with only the very tip of the horn fully blocked in

HOOVES

- To paint the hooves, use the same process as for the horns and bone, but do not do a final highlight of cream. If you want to save time, you could even stop at the British Uniform stage described above. Remember to stripe your hooves to create the realistic laminated keratin effect one sees, for example, on horse and goat hooves!

LOINCLOTH

- Basecoat the cloth with Miniature Paints Sand in two thin coats

- Wash with Army Painter Strong tone

- Highlight with Miniature Paints Sand

- Highlight with a 50:50 mix of Miniature Paint Sand:Cream

BELT AND LEATHER WRAPPINGS

- Basecoat with Miniature Paints Chocolate Brown

- Wash with Army Painter Dark Tone

- Highlight with watered-down Citadel Skrag Brown

And there you go! A simple and very quick way to get nice-looking Beastmen on the table, I hope it proves useful.

Thank you for reading, and if you haven’t seen it already please check out my Instagram account - @warhammer_skirmish_project, where I post more often than on here. Alternatively, if you came from there, then thanks for looking!

Owen

Averland State Troops Painting Guide

Hello everyone,

It’s been a little while since I’ve posted anything. I am currently working on reorganising and indexing all of the Warhammer Skirmish scenarios, however it will be a little while before I am ready to post these on the blog. In the meantime, here’s a quick painting guide for my Averland state troops from the Empire. Unfortunately I forgot to take progress shots, but I hope you find the guide useful in any case.

Paints:

I paint with an eclectic hodgepodge of different brands I’ve collected over the years. In fact, I’m still using some of my oldest paints from around 2004! As such, there’s no guarantee you could follow this using the exact paints, but I’m sure you’ll be able to improvise using what you have.

Undercoat:

From force of habit I undercoated in black paint, but honestly undercoating all in white then basecoating the metallics in black would definitely have saved me time. It’s up to you which undercoat colour you use though.

Metal:

I have a tried and trusted technique for painting worn steel, derived from a Games Workshop guide from a while back. As such, it will probably be pretty familiar to some of you, just with different paints.

- To start, basecoat the metal in a dark brownish metallic colour. I used to use GWs Tin Bitz, but I ran out and they stopped selling it, so I now use their excellent Warplock Bronze, which is pretty much the same.

- Heavily drybrush the metal using a standard silver metal-colour paint. I used to use GWs old Boltgun Metal, but now use Miniature Paints Silver.

- Wash the armour with a black wash or ink. I use Army Painter Dark Tone Wash, but I’m sure the GW equivalent (or Vallejo or whatever) will work just as well. The wash tones down the drybrushing results and really makes it look good.

Wood:

I basecoated the wooden hafts and handgun stocks with Miniature Paints Chocolate Brown. I then carefully painted on the woodgrain with watered down Vallejo British Uniform, drawing irregular wavy lines along the length of the stock.

Flesh:

I’ve tried all sorts of basecoats and washes to do flesh, but I find a very traditional basecoat-mid-highlight scheme works best for Caucasian skin tones for me. Feel free to substitute your own preferred method!

- Basecoat the flesh with a 50:50 mix of a dark red-brown terracotta colour and a pinkish skin tone to get a dark fleshy pink colour that’s perfect for shading in the recesses. For this, I use a mix of Miniature Paints Chestnut Brown, which is almost equivalent to GWs old Dark Flesh colour, and GWs old Dwarf Flesh, but any warm, slightly pink pale skin colour will work well.

- Mid tone the flesh with a pinkish skin tone, leaving the base colour visible in the recesses of the face and between the fingers. I use GWs Dwarf Flesh here but any warm, pink pale flesh colour will be suitable.

- Highlight the raised areas of the flesh, so the nose, eyebrows, top of the cheeks, chin, knuckles etc., with a paler flesh colour. I use GWs old Elf Flesh, but one could simply add white to the their midtone colour, or use their preferred equivalent instead.

- Optional highlight: When I can be bothered, but particularly on character models, I sometimes do a very fine final highlight on the extremities of the flesh using an off-white or cream colour. This includes the very point of the nose and the most prominent knuckles. At this stage it is important to make sure that paint really has been thinned down! I use the Miniature Paints Cream, but it is actually very white, so I am sure a normal white paint will also do the job fine when watered down sufficiently.

Yellow Cloth:

For the yellow, I basecoated all of the cloth white then used the new GW contrast paint Nazdreg Yellow, then added a highlight. This contrast paint is great as it adds a lovely dark red-brown shade in the recesses but a nice yellow tint to the raised surfaces, without it being garish. To get uniform results, however, I would advise always taking paint from the body of the pot, not the lid, wiping your painting surface to check the consistency before applying. When painting, for proper shading, you do want to be applying it thickly initially, but then using your brush to drag it around the model as much as possible. Be careful also to babysit your models and drain pools of the contrast away from recesses before they set. If you time it wrong, however, it is all too easy to remove a pool and also remove all of the shading from that area.

Inevitably, I had to make corrections to the contrast painted yellow. Instead of repainting white and using the contrast again, I used a mix of a mid yellow (in this instance GW Golden Yellow) and Miniature Paints Chestnut Brown (the lovely dark red-brown I mentioned earlier) to recreate a shaded yellow colour, while watered-down Chestnut Brown matched the colour of the deepest recesses. I also found GW Golden Yellow on its own closely approximated the colour of the yellow contrast-painted areas.

Anyway, to highlight I used the old GW paint Sunburst Yellow, which is quite a bright yellow.

Black Cloth:

For the black cloth I applied a single highlight of a 75:25 mix of Miniature Paints Black Primer and Miniature Paints Cream to the undercoat, which was also Miniature Paints Black.

Red feather:

I simply basecoated this white and applied the GW Contrast Paint Blood Angels Red. I actually really liked the effect this gave and didn’t feel the need to highlight further.

Leather:

I basecoated the leather with a dark red-brown, in this case the Miniature Paints Chestnut Brown. I then washed it with Army Painter Dark Tone wash, and then highlighted with Chestnut Brown again.

Shield decoration:

For the comet, I first painted on the shape in white, sketching on the outline before filling in the shape when I was happy with it. I then shaded the extremities of the comet and tails with GW Contrast Blood Angels Red. I shaded the rest of the shape with GW Contrast Nazdreg Yellow. Finally, I highlighted the centre of the comet and tails with GW Sunburst Yellow.

And there you go, I hope you like my quick way to make good-looking Averland troops. For the Empire!

Thanks,

Owen